Handfeeding German Shepherd Puppies
Here at “Czech Working Line” we have personally raised several hundred litters. As third generation dog breeders our grandparents raised dogs. My parents did the same. Raising dogs is in our blood. We now have grown children as fourth generation legacy dog breeders of German Shepherd puppies.
Sooner or later, whether you are a German Shepherd Dog breeder, or raising another breed, you will face a litter that crashes. In the worst case, mom can die during birth, whether naturally or while undergoing a C-section. In other cases, a stressed mother won’t have milk, or it won’t come in for days. When this occurs, without intervention, the litter will die.
For those hand-raising puppies, it’s crucial to have a reliable homemade formula on hand should medical problems arise with the pups. It’s always best to consult a vet for any health concerns rather than seeking advice through email.
Ingredients for Homemade Puppy Formula:
- 10 oz. of canned evaporated milk OR whole goat’s milk (avoid pasteurized cow’s milk)
- 3 oz sterilized water (omit if using whole goat’s milk)
- 1 or 2 raw egg yolk
- 1 cup of plain yogurt (opt for full-fat varieties)
- 1/2 tsp Karo corn syrup (do not use honey; make a simple sugar syrup substitution if Karo is unavailable)
Czech Working Line Modified Formula
Online, you will find variations of the German Shepherd puppy formula posted above. Over the years, we have learned to modify this recipe. We think you will find the formula we use at Czech Working Line more digestible with a higher acceptance rate by your puppies. We have shared this modified formula with dozens of breeders from German Shepherd Dog breeders to those raising Poodles, Golden Retrievers, and even French and English Bulldogs. Below, you can see the formula we have used with great success for years.
- 12 oz of goat’s milk. When available, use fresh, whole goat’s milk. Or, substitute for pasteurized goat’s milk. Since we don’t have goats, we use Meyenberg’s Goats milk that we pick up at Walmart. Goats milk is far superior to evaporated cow’s milk. We would drive several hours to pick up goat’s milk before using evaporated milk. With that said, don’t get into a jamb. Plan on the unexpected and be sure to have appropriate supplies on hand before your litter is due.
- 2 raw egg yolk
- 1 cup of plain full fat Greek Yoghurt (higher protein than standard yoghurt)
- 1 tsp Karo corn syrup (do not use honey; make a simple sugar syrup substitution if Karo is unavailable)
- 2 tablespoons of canned pumpkin (the canned pumpkin adds easily digestible fiber and has worked wonders to reduce diarrhea in newborn puppies)
- 1 tablespoon of Kaolin Pectin Suspension (Premier 1 Supplies or Valley Vet carries this product). Along with the canned pumpkin, the Kaolin Pectin greatly aids in soothing the stomach of newborn puppies.
Preparation Directions:
- Blend the ingredients in a blender or mix thoroughly with a wire whisk to avoid creating excessive bubbles.
- Ensure the formula is warmed to body temperature (around 101 degrees Fahrenheit) before feeding the puppies.
- Unused formula can be stored in refrigerator for 3/4 days.
- Only warm the portion of formula you plan on using. Discard any of the warmed formula that is not used. When you warm the formula, warm the formula so it is as warm as possible when put on your wrist, without burning or being overly uncomfortable. Think of how you would check milk temperature for a human baby.
General Rules for Bottle Feeding German Shepherd Puppies (and other breeds):
- Burp the puppies after each feeding to prevent discomfort.
- Watch for signs that a puppy is being fed too quickly. If milk is coming out of the puppy’s mouth, or especially if it is coming out of its nose. Stop, suction the milk from its nose, and then resume feeding (milk can be suction out with a manual bulb. Or, you might consider a mechanical aspirator/resuscitator. Google to see various available options).
- Adjust the calorie intake based on the growth rate of individual puppies, typically around 1 cc per ounce of body weight every 3 hours. When puppies are first born, our policy is to feed once every two hours. We then extend to every 2 ½ hours on day two. And then for the rest of the first week we feed every approximately every three hours, extending feeding to every four hours on the second week. We treat these numbers as a general rule. Litters that are small at birth (according to norms for your breed) will be more prone to low blood sugar. And so, these puppies will need to be fed more often. Puppies that are on the bigger side will thrive with far less effort and tend to need feeding less often. Learning to take care of at-risk puppies is as much an art as science. We know this from personal experience. We can tell you that we have made every possible mistake that you can imagine! Hand raising newborn puppies is very difficult. The high risk puppies can often need supplemental oxygen and when mom doesn’t have colostrum puppies will often greatly benefit from plasma. Having worked with veterinarians who worked with large cats in zoos, we learned decades ago to draw plasma from our own dogs for use in at risk puppies. As a general rule of thumb, our vet would draw 500 ml of blood from a dog weighing 50 lbs or greater. This amount of blood would spin down to about 200 ml of plasma. Our protocol is to give newborn puppies 20 cc’s. Some would be given via a feeding tube over the first twelve hours. The remaining cc’s would be given subcutaneously. The puppy will only absorb the plasma orally for the first 8-12 hours after birth, so giving orally after the first twelve hours is a waste of the plasma. Tube feeding can be extremely dangerous. It is very easy to aspirate a puppy by inserting the tube into the lungs, by overfeeding or feeding too quickly. Include your veterinary in this process. Find a local experienced breeder to help you. When it comes to at-risk puppies, plasma is gold! Having been involved in several years of research in past years with a research scientist at OSU, we can give first hand experience on seeing dozens of puppies kept alive with active canine herpes that otherwise would most assuredly not made it. In the future, we’ll write another article on the benefits of plasma and how to trouble shoot at risk puppies. When we do that, we’ll link that article to this one. With that, back to hand feeding.
- Regularly weigh the puppies using a kitchen food scale to monitor their progress accurately.
- With the advent of silicone feeding stations, it is worth noting that the home-made formula above is far too thick to pass through these feeding station. For the feeding stations, you must use a commercial powdered formula. Personally, when we have been in a bind, we have used Esbilac. This brand is by far our favorite and we have had good success with it. When possible, we prefer the home-made formula listed above. We find our puppies seem to grow faster and perform much better. One word of caution. There are other commercial formulas. Some of these we have used ourselves. One of those is a well-known commercial brand. Multiple breeders whom we know personally with multiple dog breeds have experienced serious joint developmental issues along with ongoing phlegm-related coughing problems. Stick with the best quality commercial formula you can afford, or try the Czech Working Line Formula listed above.
Weight Conversion Chart for Hand-Feeding Puppies:
Puppy Weight (ounces / grams) | Formula Amount (daily) |
1 oz (28.3 gm) | 15cc daily |
2 oz (56.6 gm) | 15cc daily |
3 oz (84.9 gm) | 15cc daily |
4 oz (113.2 gm) | 30cc daily |
5 oz (141.5 gm) | 30cc daily |
6 oz (169.8 gm) | 45cc daily |
7 oz (198.1 gm) | 45cc daily |
8 oz (226.4 gm) | 60cc daily |
9 oz (254.7 gm) | 60cc daily |
10 oz (283.0 gm) | 75cc daily |
11 oz (311.3 gm) | 80cc daily |
12 oz (339.6 gm) | 90cc daily |
13 oz (367.9 gm) | 90cc daily |
14 oz (396.2 gm) | 105cc daily |
15 oz (424.5 gm) | 105cc daily |
16 oz (452.8 gm) | 120cc daily |
17 oz (481.1 gm) | 120cc daily |
18 oz (509.4 gm) | 135cc daily |
19 oz (537.7 gm) | 135cc daily |
20 oz (566.0 gm) | 150cc daily |
21 oz (594.3 gm) | 150cc daily |
22 oz (622.6 gm) | 165cc daily |
23 oz (650.9 gm) | 165cc daily |
24 oz (679.2 gm) | 180cc daily |
25 oz (707.5 gm) | 180cc daily |
26 oz (735.8 gm) | 195cc daily |
27 oz (764.1 gm) | 195cc daily |
28 oz (792.4 gm) | 210cc daily |
29 oz (820.7 gm) | 210cc daily |
30 oz (849.0 gm) | 225cc daily |
31 oz (877.3 gm) | 225cc daily |
32 oz (905.6 gm) | 240cc daily |
33 oz (933.9 gm) | 240cc daily |
34 oz (962.2 gm | 255cc daily |
35 oz (990.5 gm) | 255cc daily |
36 oz (1018.8 gm) | 270cc daily |
37 oz (1047.1 gm) | 270cc daily |
38 oz (1075.4 gm) | 285cc daily |
39 oz (1103.7 gm) | 285cc daily |
40 oz (1132.0 gm) | 300cc daily |
Note: Divide the total amount of formula by the number of times you feed per day. These amounts are a rough estimate. Pay attention to your German Shepherd puppies. Some will thrive from day one and grow like weeds. They will be able to take a little more. Others will be a trainwreck from day one and you will struggle to get them to take enough. If this is your first time, try and find a friend to coach you through the process. My wife and I have done so dozens of times. A good coach will save you puppies many times over. And, as Murphy’s Law would have it, your crisis will most always occur on the weekend late at night when your vet is closed and you feel oh so uncomfortable calling on your friends. Good friends are awesome and will answer the phone late at night!
By following these guidelines and using the appropriate feeding schedule based on the puppies’ weight and age, you can ensure that the hand-raised puppies receive the necessary nutrients and care for optimal growth and health. Remember to monitor their progress closely and seek veterinary assistance if any issues arise during the hand-raising process.
Caring for Orphaned German Shepherd Puppies (and Other Breeds)
Addressing Temperature Regulation and Hydration in Puppies
As is true with many breeds, compromised, newborn GSD puppies struggle to regulate their body temperature. They are prone to becoming chilled or hypothermic. We have several incubators. Thankfully, through diligent selecting for good mamma’s we rarely need them anymore. But in the early years of breeding, they were used more often. At risk puppies that are not thriving need to be regularly checked to make sure they are maintaining a proper body temperature.
It becomes imperative to provide a heat source to maintain the puppies’ warmth during their initial weeks of life. Suitable heat sources include hot water bottles, incubators, and heat lamps; however, caution must be exercised to prevent overheating or burns. Additionally, ensuring that the puppy’s enclosure is free from drafts, positioned away from windows, doorways, and HVAC vents is vital. While these other sources of heat can be used in a pinch, an incubator will save your puppy many times over during times of crisis. If you plan on raising more than a few litters, investing in a good quality incubator might be insurance you don’t need for some time. But when you need it, you’ll be glad you have one. We have both a hand-made version made out of painted plywood and a reptile heat lamp hooked up to a thermostat that turns on and off as needed. It’s simple, but it works amazing. We also have a Pet Brooder 90. These cost $1300 to $1400, but they are well made and have served us extremely well.
During the pups’ first four days of life, the aim is to maintain the air temperature within their habitat between 86°F and 90°F, gradually decreasing to around 80°F by day 10. If raising a litter of puppies, slightly reducing the temperature is acceptable as the pups naturally stay close and keep each other warm.
The normal rectal temperature for a newborn puppy ranges between 97-99°F. While some might say 95°F is within the normal range, our experience is that this temperature is too low. Detecting a rectal temperature below 95°F or lower signals a critical case of hypothermia requiring immediate intervention to prevent any life-threatening conditions. If you ever find a puppy in the range of 92°F to 93°F your puppy is critically cold and without rapid intervention, could easily die.
When you find a puppy that is cold, Care should be taken to avoid overheating the puppy or subjecting it to rapid warming, especially with weaker puppies as it may prove fatal. One of the main reasons for this has to do with low blood sugar. Raising a puppy’s temperature too quickly can cause them to quickly deplete their available (low) blood sugar. Depleting this blood sugar can cause the weak puppy to go into (avoidable) seizure and die within seconds to minutes.
If you find a puppy is overly cold, put a drop of karo syrup on your figure (think diabetic) and let them puppy suck the syrup of your finger. Then slowly raise the puppy’s body temperature. Give a slight bit of sugar to the puppy will give it just enough help to maybe keep it alive while you help increase its body temperature out of this danger zone. Do not try and nurse a cold puppy. Many of you will feel terrible and feel the puppy really needs to nurse, or how will it have energy to get better. Learn from our experience. Wait to give the puppy formula (or to nurse) until after you stabilize the puppy’s temperature. Get its temperature back up to the safe zone for a solid thirty minutes before trying to nurse. Following this protocol has helped us save countless puppies, including many where we have walked breeders through this process late at night (isn’t that always the way it works….)
Observing Signs of Dehydration in Newborn German Shepherd Puppies (and Other Breeds)
Newborn puppies are susceptible to dehydration if not nursing adequately or if in a hot and dry environment. Key indicators of dehydration include reduced skin elasticity and dry gums, indicative of decreased saliva production. Adequate hydration, along with appropriate nutrition, is crucial. If necessary, humidifying the puppy’s living space is recommended, ensuring it is not excessively hot and humid, which can lead to respiratory issues. Dehydration will cause a puppy to crash shockingly fast.
In instances where subcutaneous fluids are required, it is a topic best addressed with your vet. Often, the puppy will need subcutaneous fluids. New breeders are often shocked by the amount of fluids it can take to get a puppy properly hydrated. Even a puppy weighing as little as 16 ounces can often require several applications of 20 to 40 cc’s to get them stabilized.
Puppy Feeding Practices
Many breeders find human baby bottles to be preferred over specialized puppy bottles is highlighted for feeding. Checking the nipple hole size to ensure proper milk flow is crucial. If nursing difficulties arise due to undersized holes, enlarging the holes using a sterilized needle. In cases of weak pups with poor suck reflexes, tube feeding with guidance from a veterinarian is recommended. As a reminder, tube feeding can be very dangerous. Most breeders will lose not just one, but multiple puppies in learning to be proficient in tube feeding. Get help from your veterinarian. This is not an area to just “wing it.”
Assisting Hand-Fed Puppies with Defecation
To aid hand-fed puppies in defecation, mimick the natural stimulation of the mother dog. This is achieved by gently massaging the anal region with a warm, damp cloth or cotton ball post-feeding during the initial two weeks of their lives.
Early Care for Newborn Puppies
The critical nutritional window within the first 36 hours of a puppy’s life emphasizes timely nursing. Timely nursing post-birth ensures the transfer of essential antibodies from the mother, vital for disease resistance. Should natural nursing not ensue or if the litter size demands additional nutrition, supplementation with a suitable homemade milk replacer is an interim measure.
Disclaimer: None of the above should be received in any way as medical advice. The above article is a general overview of what has worked for us, along with the help of our veterinarian. This article is intended for educational purposes only. When needed, get the advice of a good veterinarian. A vet that loves dogs and has experience will be a blessing ten times over. Our hope is that our years of hard work can help some that read this article. May you learn from our mistakes that it may go well with you.
Chad McCarthy, P.hD.